Mitre 10 shows you the easy landscaping video about how to lay outdoor paving; from preparing the ground to cutting and laying the pavers. Refresh your garden with this easy DIY job.
See the full guide here:
https://www.mitre10.co.nz/guides-and-advice/guide/how-to-lay-paving
25 Comments
funny way of actually laying the slabs, you could easily trap your fingers hence why you are having to drop them from a height. Why not lay off the last flag that has been laid?
damn those lines are crooked XD
As a qualified pavior the worst thing you can use for a flexible paving base is GAP 7. It packs too tightly and traps water. This will cause your pavers to grow algae's and lichens very quickly. If laid as a base in a driveway it can lead to your pavers falling apart as trapped water will hydraulic up between the joints, as you drive over them, and blow out the jointing sand that locks your pavers together.
Paving bedding sand should be very coarse, river sand is best as it is salt free. Salt will cause your pavers to efflorescence. To sum up the bed and base you lay your pavers over should have a very good drainage system.
The exception to this is pavers that are laid in rigid manner. That is, laid over a mortar bed with mortar joints.
Note: Want your paving laid correctly? Use a qualified pavior.
This is how not to lay pavers
For starters the rubble looks to thick to just whack it on top, should be layer and whacked every 100mm also i would be using a bigger whacker than that for compacting rubble. That size whacker only the 70mm would be hard and the rest still loose underneath. Like others have said pvc pipe is the worst thing you can use, your better of using steels (flat metal) also you should stamp your sand down before screeding, that sand would be loose as all hell and should only be 20mm thick otherwise you will get movement. If you got to mallet pavers after, then the sand isn't level. When concreting you shouldn't be able to dig the rubble that easy ( which is why its not compacted properly, probably due to the small whacker and no water added to help it compact) it should rock hard. Once sand is on pavers they should be whacked with carpet on your whacker to compact the pavers otherwise its just going to move thats what seals the pavers in place, you get water on that job with that loose rubble and nothing whacked your asking for trouble.
this is good enough for me… thanks mate!
Very helpful, I am drawing up plans right now. Wouldn't spacers be handy? Can you recommend a width? Cheers
Good info but looks like a lot of work and tools required, definitely not 'easy as'.
Id never lay on just sand. Rather a wet mix bed or at least cement in with the screed
Compact the paving sand as well as the base course you'll get a much more even finish.
this guy knows his stuff I would hire him in a heartbeat
They don't look flat
X u
m. n. n
loved watching and learning
Hi, what is the recommended height for the first and second layers of sand ? Also when did Auckland council start implementing the 150mm height difference between house floor and outside paver? My house was built in 1980s and the height difference is much smaller. Thanks
Poo
What is your email
I luv mitre 10 mega yes
Lol why drop the pavers ?
Why not use your right hand on the top and keep left hand where it is ?
Pointless screeding it mint ( well in you're case attempting to ) when you're fucking up the screed by dropping the edge of the paver on it …
Also anyone that's got half a brain paving wise
Would never lay off a string line of the side of the house …
You want to string the front lay it ( sq off the house ) ie use a sq ..
Then you can string side
Never rely on the pavers being straight either
You need to string every 3rd or 4th row and straighten it …
As for the prep and screeding … Well i wouldn't put a guarantee on it for the customer
You wanna use yellow brickie or plastering sand
Water and compact it up on layers
Final level should be just above paving height and hard enough to leave a mark on sand but not sunken footprints
Then set you're levels and use thin flat bar 1.6 + mm give it a little tap so it sets into correct level marks
Yes it's harder to screed but it ain't going to sink
And will be a lot better finish ….
Great thanks… I probably would have placed the cut edge against the house but that's a minor detail. 🙂
excellent, thank you.
G he looked so young.
what kind of boots is he using
easy job?