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20 Comments
I have no trees. So, no leaves. I wonder if that’s why my compost is taking so long? Thanks! I’ll go to the feed store for alfalfa pellets today.
I had a couple piles of compost that was loaded , I mean loaded with worms this summer. I usually do hot compost but those piles I never worked it like hot compost and the worms did a great job.
Thank you! Great tips!
I am finally getting the hang of composting. I actually have a hot pile and I flip and water fairly often. Much of my pile, however is grass clippings and it clumps. I will try alfalfa too. We put all our leaves in the compost as well. I will go to the pile on a day it is dry and use my hands to break up some of the clumps then water the pile.
That’s the thing—moisture. We are sandy soil and there use to be no worms. It’s been several years of adding bark and composting right in wide long rows that I am starting to see worms!🪱👏🏼👏🏼
I try to chop all the big stuff and do add a lot directly to the rows, but I also have a few piles that take overflow of larger stuff like sunflower and broccoli stalks. I know you showed in previous videos about burying right in rows and I think you get more nutrients in that method.
I just subscribed and glad I did. This is a great video with a lot of practical ideas. With pestering from my neighbor, I shifted to using worms to do the composting. Not vermiculture with layers etc., but instead using red wigglers to eat up the stuff. It seems to be more forgiving as far as balancing N and C, and doesn't need to be turned over since red wigglers feet at the top. The pile looks pretty much the same, but it needs to have additions put to one side to draw worms away from the side I want to use. Since it's going in the garden, a few worm hitchhikers are welcomed. I only need to make sure the pile is moist, and avoid getting it hot, otherwise very similar. Results are amazing. Is anyone else doing something like this?
Great episode! I started composting this summer in a 100 gallon #SmartPot Compost Sak and have now ordered some Alfalfa pellets to see if it will move along a little faster.
4:23 hey Luke, love your channel, alfalfa is not a grass, it's a legume, k luv u bye
We don't turn our compost, mainly due to age, but after about a year, it's ready for use. We begin a new compost pile in the spring, incorporating a significant amount of grass clippings. During the fall, we add leaves, and by the following spring, we have composted soil at the bottom. We scrape off the top layer to access the well-composted material, and any leaves that didn't fully break down over the winter become the starting point for the new season.
To boost nitrogen levels, we add used coffee grounds sparingly throughout the compost. For calcium, we include finely ground eggshells (which can be processed in a blender), mollusk shells (like clams and mussels, but we don't blend these), and occasionally crab shells (predominantly blender-friendly) after baking and grinding. However, we place these deep in the pile to avoid any fishy odors.
Additionally, we incorporate Epsom salt (magnesium) and rust dust, which contributes iron to the compost. We sparingly add potash obtained from the fire pit to provide phosphorus and potassium. We also create biochar for the garden in the spring. Most of these amendments are added to the old soil since it tends to be nutrient-dense and can potentially harm plants if used in excess.
Our composting area is located on cement, making it easy to access the composted soil at the bottom, allowing us to evaluate the yearly progress. We are mindful of pH management: unused coffee grounds, rust, and sulfur can be used to lower pH, while lime-based compounds like dolomite lime and agricultural lime can raise it. Other methods, such as using baking soda, crushed eggshells, or wood ashes, can also be effective in adjusting pH levels.
Regarding rust, it works for our extended composting process, but it's important to note that iron in the form of rust needs time for conversion. Natural weathering, microbial activity, and soil chemistry gradually transform rust into soluble iron forms, which may not meet the immediate iron needs of plants.
We caution against overdoing it with additives, particularly in a large compost area. It's easy to add too much of certain materials, like coffee grounds, so moderation is key. When adding ash from burning, consider that it contains nutrients and carbon, which could escape in the form of smoke.
Clean ash is essential; burning treated wood or painted materials is not advisable. We use hardwood and sometimes green wood for burning, and we even toss partially eaten fruits and vegetables into the fire to introduce additional nutrients not typically found in wood.
While rust can contribute to iron content, it's often more effective to use iron supplements or fertilizers containing chelated iron or water-soluble forms of iron for meeting the iron needs of plants.
Can wood chips from stump grinding be added to the compost pile or ben
I made a series compost bins. I live in the desert so my compost dries out pretty quick. I added a branch to my drip irrigation so I only had to turn the pile occasionally and keeping it moist was done automatically.
I added a couple of bags of dry chicken manure and it heated up nicely. It's cheaper and has twice the N. I'm going to try fish feed pellets next time. It has even more N plus its fish and fish is great for gardening as most of us here already know
I purchased a compost tumbler that makes composting easier.
I flip my compost ones a year in spring and sift it with a one inch screen
Everything that goes through the screen goes in an old rainbarrel with a broken bottom
The rest goes back on the compost pile
I heard the Johnson-Su method makes better compost, and there's no turning involved.
I don't have any trees on my property As of now, so Is there any alternative. I'm still composting whatever I can, thinking of investing in a paper shredder.
Luke, I have put shredded maple leaves on my raised beds for the winter. Would mixing in some alfalfa pellets be beneficial?
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If you’re flipping compost or moving wood chips, invest in a 4 tine manure fork. Theres a bit of a learning curve with it, but once you figure out how to use it, sooooo much easier than using a shovel.
TIP – A compost screw like the Tumbleweed Compost Mate makes turning a full bin super quick and easy. You just screw it down into the pile and pull up, do that several times and the whole pile is turned in minutes with much less effort, which means turning a pile isn't a dreaded PIA chore. I've had mine for over 20 years and it's the tool I use more than any other. Hope this helps someone. Cheers from Oz.